Women’s Ice 1.21.12!

Posted: January 23, 2012 in Uncategorized

When the forecast calls for -19 degree wind chill in Smuggler’s Notch, I pack hand warmers and extra tea for everyone. When those hand warmers turn out to all be duds, you become even more thankful that the day turned out to be very very pleasant, with a quiet, gentle snow falling in the morning, and zero wind in the afternoon.

We started off the morning meeting at the Sunrise Café to grab coffee and some snacks for the day, then headed up to the Workout Wall in Smuggler’s Notch.  We started off on the right side, working on climbing technique, movement, and awakening new muscles!  Everyone progressed so much during the day- learning to trust the crampons, each swing getting better, and trying out little mixed sections (using rock and ice) to get up steeper sections at the top of the climbs. We worked on our ab muscles too… so much laughter.  A fun glissade out at the end of the day and a jaunt up to check out the top of the Notch completed a full winter adventure.

Thanks to Kara, Katie, Nicole and Alison, who came all the way from Boston, and Brittany (representing VT!) for coming out for a day on the ice!

-Andrea Charest

Mark & Stan 1.20.12

Posted: January 20, 2012 in Uncategorized

What a day!  Being over-caffeinated today, I decided to get up this morning and bolt to Mad River to pick up my pass and take a few runs, then head to the Notch to check out some new (to me) beginner-friendly spots, and see if I could catch Steve and his two guests in Hidden Gully.  The skiing at Mad River was fun as long as there were no expectations, and I arrived at the top of the Notch with perfect timing to capture a few shots of the crew climbing!  It would have been great to have an even bigger telephoto lens… they were way up there!  Hopefully we’ll post more photos if Steve, Mark or Stan got any today, and their tale.  –Andrea Charest

Closing out 2011 with a great day of ice climbing is never a bad day at the office.  Thanks for coming all the way from the UK to climb with us, Damon, and Happy New Year!

~posted by Steve Charest

Women ROCK! August 13, 2011

Posted: August 15, 2011 in Uncategorized

Thank you to Michelle, Lisa, and Dani who came out for the August 13 “Women Rock!” Course.  It was a perfect day at Lower West Bolton– dry and sunny, but not too hot, and not too busy. We started off by going over the climbing basics, and climbed the Pine Tree Corner (5.7 with a 5.9 crux), and What’s Up Doc? (5.9).    We then headed up to the top of the cliff to check out the anchors for those two climbs (two trees for WUD and two bolts for the PTC) and take in the view of the valley.  We rappelled down Harvest Moon (80 feet), and then climbed back up, finding the very characteristic flakes of the route and practicing the layback technique (5.8)!  Everyone did a great job!  Thanks– you women rock!! ~Andrea Charest

SumMAT Camp & Expeditions 2011

Posted: August 15, 2011 in Uncategorized

WOW, this summer has been going SO fast!  We are in our second to last week of Day Camp, with one Expedition left to go out, and we’ve had a phenomenal summer so far.  We have excellent staff, fun and adventurous campers, and of course the best activities of any camp around… :) – indoor & outdoor climbing, caving, kayaking, sailing with the Community Sailing Center, and indoor and outdoor Ropes Courses!  Because they’re minors, we like to keep our camper’s photos password protected on our Adventure Page, but if you are interested in seeing these pictures, please e-mail Andrea, andrea@petracliffs.com, to obtain the password.

Moab & Indian Creek, April 2011

Posted: August 15, 2011 in Uncategorized

(coming soon!)

Ice I & II, March 12-13

Posted: March 13, 2011 in Winter

Is this the beginning of the end of ice season?  It sure felt like it this weekend– well Saturday anyway– with 34 degree temps and water rushing down behind the ice in places.  Saturday was very pleasant as Shawn, Matt and I headed to the Workout Wall in Smuggler’s Notch.  We broke trail on snowshoes (thank goodness for those!) but even with snowshoes Shawn was sinking in waist deep in some places!  We climbed on the right end of the Workout Wall for a while, striving for good technique and climbing with one ice axe to work on balance and footwork, then we moved around to the left end to get on some burly stuff.

On the left end, two other climbers set up a top rope and as they were rappelling, one of them stomped through the ice dam that was keeping the far left end of the ice dry– as we watched them climb, the water was cascading over them!  We had a much drier climb with nice soft ice.  We climbed here until the hands could no longer hold on.

Sunday brought rain in the valleys but snow, wind, and colder temps above ~1200′.  Good thing Matt got a decent view of the Notch on Saturday… it was socked in today.  We followed the trail that fellow Petra folks broke on Saturday (thanks guys) to climb Jeff’s Slide and climbed just right of the far left side.  So much snow!  A quick avy assessment reassured me that the whole shelf wasn’t going to go sliding off with me on it.  Once in the cave, we headed off climber’s right on some excellent steep, soft ice.  We decided to call it a day after descending from J’s Slide so that Matt could recoup before the drive back to MA this afternoon.

Thanks Matt and Shawn, hope to see you again soon! ~Andrea Charest

Petra Cliffs, in collaboration with Chauvin Guides International, instructed a Level 2 AIARE (American  Institute for Avalanche Research & Education) Course over the past 4 days on Mt. Washington, NH.  Instructors Marc Chauvin and Steve Charest taught the AIARE curriculum of Analyzing Snow Stability and Avalanche Hazard, which includes:

  1. Advancing understanding of avalanche terrain, particularly from the perspective of stability analysis.
  2. Discussing how the snowpack develops and metamorphoses over time; and discuss the factors that contribute to spatial variability.
  3. Learning standard observation guidelines and recording formats for factors that influence or indicate snow stability using the SWAG module (Snow, Weather and Avalanche Guidelines).
  4. Advancing understanding of avalanche release and triggering mechanisms.
  5. Introducing a snow stability analysis and forecasting framework.
  6. Improving companion rescue skills including multiple and deep burials.

The weather didn’t exactly cooperate for long days outside (rain, sleet, freezing rain), and formed a breakable crust over a layer of sleet, making for “survival” skiing the one day we were able to get out for a tour (Monday 3/7) to below the Little Headwall in Tuckerman Ravine.  There, we dug test pits to evaluate the snowpack and performed rescue drills of multiple buried “victims.”  The ski out on the Sherburne Trail was over an hour of the breakable crust attacking our skis, sending us to the ground occasionally, and making for some group bonding over one of the worst days of skiing any of us had ever had!  Oh, did I mention that Vermont was getting up to 30″ of snow while we were getting rain & sleet?

Because of the conditions outside, our education was concentrated in the classroom, which was equally as valuable.  Temperature gradients, vapor pressure, weather, snowpack metamorphism, persistent weak layers, tour planning and preparation, lapse rates, rounding, faceting, graphing snowpacks,  bonding & sintering, 3-circle method… there’s more than you can imagine involved in snow science, but we were reminded to keep the big picture in mind– don’t let all of the small stuff become so important that the big picture is overlooked.  And, an inherent factor in the winter sports that we do, the mountains often make the final decision– as Chauvin says, “Not all good decisions have good outcomes, and not all bad decisions have bad outcomes.”  When we walk away from an excellent ski run without consequences in avalanche terrain, did we make a good decision, or just have a good outcome?  It’s hard to know, but we’re being educated on how to make the best decisions given the information we can obtain.

Here are some photos of the course, and I hope to get more from other participants!  Many thanks to Marc and Steve for teaching, and thanks to Pablo, Ryan, Coby, and Dan for participating in this course!

One of the tools that Steve now has is an “Avalanche Airbag” pack.  As biglines.com writes:  “Avalanche airbags work on the principle of inverse segregation. A flowing granular fluid under gravity (such as moving snow) will deposit the larger particles on top and the smaller particles on the bottom.  The idea of the airbag is to suddenly increase the volume of the victim, thereby floating them to the top layer of the avalanche before the moving snow stops  and solidifies. Provided the airbag is properly deployed in time, the chances of a complete burial are significantly reduced.”  The first time we deployed the airbag was inside Petra Cliffs Climbing Center– kids all thought that it was a “rocket pack” that would shoot you up and out of the avalanche.  Now that would be fun… but it would probably weigh 40 pounds!

~Andrea Charest

March 2 with Walrus Kayaks

Posted: March 10, 2011 in Winter

Mark, Cameron and Juan were booked to go out with us on February 28, which turned into a 33 degree day with rain, freezing rain, and winds gusting to 50mph+ in the Notch.  A pleasant experience?  We think not.  We postponed to March 2, a beautiful sunny day, but COLD… I think I saw -4 F when we parked in the Notch at 9am.

We ended up chasing the sun that day, beginning on Jeff’s Slide for a couple climbs and a rappel.   We looked over to the frigid, shaded North side of the Notch and  knew we had made a good decision.  Just about the time the last bit of sun was squeezed away from Jeff’s Slide,  we were ready to move on, and we followed the sun to Frank’s Creation and climbed until the sun went down!

Mark, Cameron and Juan work for Walrus Kayaks, a small builder of composite sea kayaks based in Winooski, Vermont.   I’ll hopefully collect some photos from them soon!

-Andrea Charest

Bachelor Party!

Posted: March 10, 2011 in Winter

Thanks to CT and friends for coming up from New Jersey for CT’s Bachelor Party!  CT didn’t want to partake in traditional bachelor party debauchery, and wanted to give his friends an experience they would remember forever.  We took the crew out to Driving Force to avoid crowds at any more popular areas… you never know with a bachelor party… but they were a very respectful and fun group.

I trucked up a load of ropes and statics earlier that morning to set up, towing them in behind me in a Mad River Rocket-turned-pulk.  I got some odd looks that morning, skiing in on the Notch road with a harness on, pulling a 40 pound load.  Guides Paul Brown and Dillon Bosma met the crew at the parking area, came up to Driving Force; everyone climbed a few times.  We are now rated one of the top activities to do for a Bachelor Party on “Simply The Best Man!”   We hope to get some photos from this group soon.

~Andrea Charest